Kalimera: A Culinary Journey Through Athens
I adore the city of Athens and its rich culinary heritage. Despite its age, this city never feels old to me. I lose myself in its charming streets and vibrant culture each time I visit. The cozy neighborhoods are filled with locals who take great pride in preserving their history and arts, creating a unique and authentic cultural and culinary paradise. It’s hard to overlook the numerous outdoor markets and small ouzeri eateries that populate the landscape. These charming establishments serve small plates of smoked and cold seafood accompanied by the traditional Greek drink, ouzo. Little tavernas, often featuring live guitar or bouzouki music, set a festive tone along the narrow streets.
When in Athens, eat like an Athenian.
To savor authentic Athenian flavors, consider exploring different neighborhoods on foot from the city center. In Ano Petralona, located atop a hill, you will discover the Petriana district known for its charming stone-built houses. To quickly escape the bustling city, stroll through the narrow streets and admire the little homes adorned with flower pots hanging from the balconies.
The Bohemian area of Metaxourgio, which translates to "silk mill," is a vibrant artistic neighborhood filled with art theaters and galleries showcasing artists from around the globe. As you stroll along the sidewalks lined with neoclassical buildings, cafés, and charming small restaurants, you'll encounter Seychelles, an exceptional local eatery. Their octopus dish is fantastic, and their baklava cheesecake is simply out of this world.
Despite being a tourist area, Psyri is very hip and has some authentic small restaurants worth visiting. For breakfast or a snack, go to “to koulouri tu Psiri” to enjoy the Athenian koulouri, a delightful Greek bagel. Take a stroll through the hilly streets of the historic Thiseio, where you will admire impressive neoclassical buildings, cozy wine bars, trendy cafes, and rooftop restaurants offering stunning views of the Acropolis. The open-air cinema Cine Thission is located in this area.
To fully enjoy Athens's street food scene, visit Syntagma. This area is surrounded by picturesque streets that offer a fantastic variety of delicious street food options to satisfy your cravings and energize you. Cozy, traditional restaurants serve classic dishes such as pastichio, spanakotiropita, hilopites, and roasted lamb with potatoes. However, if you can try only one dish in Athens, it should be moussaka. This is the most popular dish in Greek cuisine and one of the most famous and beloved Greek dishes worldwide. Typically, moussaka consists of layers of baked eggplant and ground meat topped with a creamy béchamel sauce that turns crispy and golden when baked.
A charming restaurant in Syntagma that has become an Athenian tradition for me is “O Mirmingas ke o Tzitzikas”, meaning “The Cricket and the Ant. " named after Aesop’s fable. They serve exceptional kolokithokeftedes and fantastic rooster meatballs in tomato sauce. The inspiration for my kataifi brick-chicken dish came from this restaurant.
Taking a break to visit Anafiotika is a must. This charming neighborhood in the heart of Athens resembles the blue and white islands of the Cyclades.
Nikis and Apollonos streets are vibrant, and street food vendors offer a variety of delicious treats. You can indulge in souvlaki wrapped in warm pita bread, grab a koulouri for a quick snack, or enjoy loukoumades (Greek doughnuts) drizzled with honey if you have a sweet tooth. These neighborhoods are a paradise for food lovers seeking a tasty and quick bite.
If you are a Seafood enthusiast, you should explore the neighborhoods of Mikrolimano in Piraeus and Vouliagmeni, which are a short drive from the center of Athens. These areas offer a variety of fish tavernas and upscale seafood restaurants with stunning sea views.
Not a seafood lover? No worries. Head down to the Vlachika and Kesariani neighborhoods on the outskirts of Athens. The irresistible aroma of grilled meats will greet you, and you can savor succulent lamb ribs, slow-roasted leg of lamb, and feta-stuffed biftekia (lamburgers) that are truly addictive. It's a short drive from the city center but entirely worth it. You'll know you're close when you catch the smoky scents of roasting meat wafting through the air.
Your visit to Athens isn't complete without experiencing its spice markets. At the top of my list is the Varvakios Market, also known as the Central Market of Athens. This is the best place to find reasonably priced high-quality meats and seafood. You'll also come across abundant fresh vegetables, eggs, and herbs. You’ll find Evripidou Street, a charming area filled with hidden culinary treasures just beyond the central market. The spices there are vibrant and aromatic, creating a true feast for the senses and guiding you to cheese shops and charcuteries. The variety of cheeses is endless, featuring aged and rare selections, as well as charcuteries like pastourma, pastrami, and prosciutto. Many places, such as "Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani," allow you to taste whatever you like before purchasing.
A note about cooking and spices:
Grinding spices is an important aspect of cooking. You can use an electric grinder or a pestle and mortar. I have my mom's old brass pestle and mortar in my kitchen, a standard kitchen tool in Cyprus and Greece. Freshly ground spices are far more vibrant and flavorful than pre-packaged ones. However, using the packaged version is certainly fine if you're in a hurry.