Pura Vida from Costa Rica
Way before our first trip to Costa Rica, one of the things that came to mind when I imagined this exotic country was its volcanoes. Costa Rica has six volcanoes that are still active and about 50-plus that have been dormant or extinct.
The most famous is the giant Arenal, located in the northern part of the country. Its surroundings are some of the best coffee plantations in the world. Arenal has an impressive symmetrical cone shape, more than the other volcanoes in Costa Rica. During our Costa Rica visit, we didn't visit Arenal, but just seeing it from a short distance was quite impressive.
Costa Rica Day One
My first food surprise during my visit to Costa Rica was the caldosa ceviche. It's a fun treat for kids and adults alike. On our way from the airport to our cousin's house, we stopped in Ciudad Colón at a small eatery where we had to try the pupusas-stuffed tortillas that Audrey insisted were a must. While waiting for our tortillas to be cooked, I noticed a small restaurant next door with a sign that read: “Pulperia - Caldosas Here.” Our guides, Chris and Audrey, explained that these are corn chips served with ceviche. You might not think it's anything extraordinary, but experiencing a Caldosa at a pulperia is unforgettable. In a bag of Costa Rican corn chips called picaritas, they pour ceviche and serve it with a spoon—you eat it straight out of the bag. This fun treat is considered a national delicacy in Costa Rica.
Let's return to the stuffed tortillas! They were truly amazing. We had a variety of options, almost like ordering pizzas. Audrey was right; the pupusas were delicious and unlike anything I had tried before. Watching the locals prepare them in a small open kitchen was a bonus!
After that, we headed to the house located up the hill in Altos de San Rafael. The streets were steep and narrow, requiring us to make room for oncoming cars. It reminded me of the small villages in the mountains of Cyprus and Crete. Upon our arrival at the house, we unloaded our belongings and made our way to the backyard. Their backyard resembled a resort-like area in the wilderness, with a creek running at the bottom of the slope, just 30 feet from the house. I felt perfectly content there; I didn't want to go anywhere else. The atmosphere was serene, filled with the gentle sounds of nature. Small, cheerful birds chirped, creating a delightful soundtrack to the surroundings. We could also hear toucans perched nearby, their deep voices echoing through the trees as if greeting us.
We took it all in and enjoyed a relaxing afternoon, snacking on our pupusas, sipping wine, and catching up with our cousins.
We had planned our dinner for our first night, weeks in advance, at a restaurant I had longed to visit and was excited about the avant-garde experience it promised—the name: Conservatorium. This restaurant features contemporary cuisine with clean, organic flavors. The ingredients are of the highest quality and are sourced locally.
The menu looked amazing, and we shared many small plates, a couple of entrees, and three desserts. What an experience! Everything was perfect down to the last detail. The staff was attentive but not overwhelming and well-informed, and the wine selection, while not extensive, offered a nice variety for us to choose from.
We began our culinary journey with a unique bread experience featuring three sourdough rolls accompanied by kokedama butter wrapped in fresh herbs. One of the rolls was a goldenberry roll, while the other three looked like small rocks. The fun was guessing which ones were edible and enjoying the surprise of the third!
Next, we savored the octopus served with a delightful corn soufflé. The dish "Cheese and Beets from the Orchard" featured a blend of goat cheese and young baby beets. We also enjoyed the refreshing watermelon tartare and the beef carpaccio, which was my personal favorite. Another standout was the fresh National Trout paired with white bean purée and mango caviar—it was scrumptious!
No dinner would be complete without dessert. We indulged in an apple white chocolate mousse enveloping homemade applesauce, a treat that pleased our taste buds and eyes. The crème brûlée, infused with Costa Rican coffee and Amaretto notes, was heavenly. To cap off the night, we couldn't resist trying the Cocoa Garden, a rich dessert with pecan praline topped with Tartufo. It was simply luscious!
Before leaving, we chatted with the chefs and were invited to visit their R&D Laboratory, but unfortunately, time did not allow that. Next time for sure - Pura Vida!