Ciao from Tuscany - Pelago
Tuscany, in all its glory, was the highlight of our trip to Italy. On spring vacation, my husband Dino and I, along with two of our closest friends from Cyprus, visited Italy. After arriving in Florence by train from Rome, we rented a car and headed to Pelago, a hilltop village about forty minutes away.
Tuscany is a region in central Italy known for its diverse landscapes. It is surrounded by the rugged Apennine Mountains, the island of Elba - where Napoleon was exiled - in the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the famous Chianti region with its olive groves and vineyards. The Tuscan countryside is exactly as we imagine it: adorned with farmhouses, olive groves, vineyards, and fields of wildflowers.
The drive from Florence to Pelago is incredibly scenic and beautiful. On the way, you will find Pontassieve, a historic little town known for its iconic bridges and gardens along the Renaissance Ring trail, which spans 172 kilometers and encircles Florence. The town is situated where the Sieve River flows into the Arno River.
Pelago is a picturesque Tuscan town in the province of Florence. It starts from the low plains and goes up to the hills and mountains. The town rests proudly above the valley, home to vineyards, olive trees, medieval castles, and rustic farms. This gem we discovered by chance is a charming town surrounded by the natural beauty of Tuscan hills and mountains, immersed in a rich history that dates back to Etruscan times.
We fell in love with Pelago: the culture, the little restaurants, and the breathtaking views captured our hearts. A must-visit is the Castello di Pelago, the medieval castle in the center of the village, which includes the parish church and the town hall, all around the central square, where you will enjoy breathtaking views. We stayed at the Florence Hill resort, conveniently located at the beginning of the town and close to other attractions, which will be mentioned in another story.
The first night, we found a quaint little restaurant named Lionia Bistrot near the town's center and were immediately drawn to it. The al fresco area was full, so we ate inside, which was great because we were a part of all the action. The servers were very friendly, and even though it was a very casual place, they were professional and informed. It was a delight to meet the chef, and we communicated just fine with a few common words we knew. We did not look for another restaurant in Pelago; we loved Lionia and returned to try new things. The food was amazing, and we all voted Lioni the best pizza we had during our Rome-Tuscan trip.
The two times we had dinner there, among other dishes, we tried:
Polentine fritte - polenta fries were simple yet delicious.
The spaghetti carbonara was very good, and we all enjoyed it.
Talliatelli ai fungi porcini was my favorite pasta.
We also tried three different pizzas, which were all very flavorful with a crispy yet soft crust:
Prochiuto Cotto, with fior di latte, is a cheese similar to mozzarella.
Fragioni, with prosciutto cotto, fungi champignon, olives, mozzarella and local tomatoes.
Napoli with salted anchovies, capers, local tomatoes, and fior di latte
During our visit to Tuscany, we made a point to try Bistecca Alla Fiorentina several times. Italians call it the king of steaks, a simple yet delicious dish deeply rooted in Tuscan culture. The Bistecca in Lionia Bistro was the best version we had. It was tender and very flavorful, grilled perfectly to a medium rare, and served sliced off the bone. We also chose a local wine, which was very good. Finally, for dessert, we had tiramisu, sorbetto al limone, tartufo al cioccolato, and cheesecake. They were all amazing!
Let's talk Prosciutto: Cotto vs. Crudo
We're all familiar with the delicate Italian ham often served on charcuterie boards, pizza, and other dishes. In Italy, prosciutto means "ham," and Italians take their prosciutti very seriously. Prosciutto cotto and prosciutto crudo, also known as Prosciutto di Parma DOP, are both delicious but quite different. Prosciutto crudo, meaning "raw" in Italian, is a dry-cured ham that has never been cooked. It is marbled with visible flavorful fat and sliced paper thin. The flavor is slightly sweet with savory notes. Prosciutto cotto, meaning "cooked," is used in panini or on an antipasto platter. It pairs well with bold cheeses and has a mild, meaty flavor with a subtle sweetness and hints of herbs. It’s also not sliced as thin as prosciutto crudo.
As we packed our bags to continue our Tuscany trip, we couldn't help but feel a mix of emotions. This charming hillside town had captured our hearts, and each corner we turned seemed to whisper secrets from the past to us. While driving away from Pelago, we promised to return and explore more of its hidden stories.