Yia Su from Cyprus
Nicosia Part 1
Pack your bags and grab your tasting spoon because I am taking you on a culinary journey to my beautiful island of Cyprus. This Mediterranean island is known for its diverse, stunning landscapes and rich history. Its impressive culinary scene has become a paradise for food enthusiasts worldwide.
During the first few days on the island, we settled in Lefkosia, my husband Dino’s and my hometown. Also known as Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus, it is located near the island's center. Some sources suggest that Lefkosia was given its name and might have originated from the tall Lefki trees that once grew in the city. On the other hand, the name Nicosia is believed to have come from the French-speaking Crusaders of the Lusignan dynasty who ruled the island around the 12th century and called the city “Nicosie.” When the town became a Venetian possession, it was translated into Italian and became internationally known as “Nicosia.”
The town boasts an impressive selection of restaurants and cafes. Ancient ruins throughout its downtown area make this city unique, where the modern meets the old.
The old part is known as Palia Lefkosia or the "wall enclave city" by the locals. The old town features numerous museums, art centers, and charming neighborhoods, and it would take a whole week to visit all of them. Traditional restaurants, known as tavernas, offer various options, including meze fare and a la carte. Additionally, many modern restaurants offer a contemporary twist on traditional dishes, creating unique and impressive dining experiences. Lefkosia is the only divided city in Europe, and its people, Greek and Turkish Cypriots on both sides, still dream of uniting one day.
Before we start our mouthwatering journey, here are some simple facts about Cyprus. How was this island formed to become the third-largest island in the Mediterranean? According to scientific findings and the Geopark visitors center in Troodos, Cyprus emerged from the sea in the eastern Mediterranean more than 92 million years ago. During the formation of Cyprus, the Tethys Ocean closed, and the Mediterranean Sea was formed as we know it today. The Troodos mountains were initially formed 8,000 meters below sea level. They rose to their present elevation about 20,000 million years ago through complex geological processes. Cyprus is a significant prototype for geoscientists worldwide, shedding light on the evolution of oceans and the planet.
The Troodos Geopark Visitor Centre is a natural laboratory where scientists can explore and study the preserved ophiolites. This enables a closer examination of the composition and characteristics of the oceanic crust. The Geopark is a must-visit on my trips.
In Cyprus, you can find evidence from all the prehistoric and historic periods. The island was settled in the Palaeolithic period and was home to dwarf animal species like elephants and hippos. Fossils are displayed in the Thalassa Museum in Ayia Napa.
Greek settlers began to settle in Cyprus by 1300/1200 BC, leading to the foundation of Greek city-kingdoms. Since then, the Greek language, civilization, and identity have been established in Cyprus.
Because of its strategic location, Cyprus was sought after by many conquerors. The Lusignans, Venetians, Ottomans, and British successively occupied Cyprus from 1192 until 1960, when it became an independent democracy.
Cyprus today
I've been spending more time in Cyprus lately and am inspired by how the island’s heritage is being embraced like never before. The next generation of farmers, bakers, and chefs is honoring culinary traditions by reviving lost ingredients and infusing their creativity into dishes. The harmonious coexistence of the old and the new embodies the essence of the island's vibrant culture.
Cyprus is a paradise for food lovers with a stunning array of dining experiences—from coastal settings to breathtaking mountain views. Cypriot cuisine beautifully blends traditional flavors with Mediterranean influences, showcasing meals crafted from fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Visitors can immerse themselves in cheese-making classes, experience the thrill of truffle hunting, and savor exquisite wines at boutique wineries. These wineries are dedicated to preserving traditional grape varietals while embracing modern techniques to create high-quality products, all rooted in sustainability and a deep respect for tradition.
Farmers markets
Farmer's markets can be found throughout Cyprus, bringing communities together.
The OXI farmer’s market in the old part of Nicosia is nestled within the city walls, situated on one of the 11 bastions of the Venetian walls. This vibrant market takes place every Wednesday and Saturday, infusing the heart of Nicosia with a sense of freshness and community. What I find most delightful is how the farmers enthusiastically present their products, encouraging visitors to sample before purchasing. The lively conversations among the visitors and farmers create an invigorating and exciting atmosphere.
Bandopolio Municipal Market is another must-visit market located in downtown Nicosia. The old Town Hall was initially transformed into a bustling permanent market featuring stalls selling fresh produce, including fruits, vegetables, baked goods, olives, herbal teas, local cheeses, and charcuterie. While open daily, the market is particularly bustling on Saturdays, offering a lively and vibrant atmosphere for visitors to explore and indulge in the finest local offerings.
The Strovolos Municipal Market is held every Friday in the parking area of the G.S.P. stadium. It is well-organized and is likely the largest market in Nicosia. The market features various products, includes a coffee shop, and is accessible to individuals with disabilities. Its location on the city's outskirts makes it popular with suburban residents and those who want to avoid traffic.
Restaurants to visit in Nicosia
I am excited to list some of my favorite restaurants; this is just a glimpse into the countless culinary gems in Nicosia. Stay tuned for more information in the upcoming Part 2 of Nicosia.
Aigaon
Aigaon restaurant is located in the old city near the Archebiscopy. It has a picturesque courtyard and multilevel dining surrounded by potted flowering plants. The food is quite good, and the wine selection is satisfactory, offering mostly Greek and Cypriot wines.
Erimites - Seafood
What a unique seafood tavern on the outskirts of Nicosia! An old door welcomes you into the courtyard, where you can dine al fresco during summer. The food was fresh and well-prepared, and the service was excellent.
Ethimo
When friends suggested dining at Ethimo, I didn't know what to expect, but they were sure I would enjoy it. We walked into a welcoming restaurant that offers modern Greek cuisine with simple yet elegant decor. The service is superb, and the food is among the best on the island. Their olive oil was the best I have ever tasted, except for the one my dad produces. The dishes were delicious, and the presentation added another layer of enjoyment to the whole experience. We dined there three times during our visit to Cyprus, and the food and service were consistently excellent. Our favorite dish, Dakos salad, is probably the best so far, and so is the Cretan pita stuffed with cheese and honey. The beef cheeks Pastitsada and their free-range chicken were amazing and perfectly cooked.
Sentio
We had walked past this restaurant several times during our nightly strolls in downtown Nicosia. I asked our foodie friends about it, but they had never been there. Intrigued, I looked it up, and it seemed interesting, so I suggested we try it. It turned out to be a delightful surprise for all of us. We enjoyed the Dakos salad, octopus carpaccio, lamb fricassee, seafood kritharaki, and the amazing chocolate experience. The attention to detail and the artistic arrangement of the food truly made the dining experience exceptional. We returned two weeks later when my son Odysseas and his girlfriend Anna came to Cyprus. Anna, being a chef herself, truly appreciated this restaurant and felt inspired by it.
E Palia Elia
As the name suggests, the Old Olive Tree is a traditional Cypriot restaurant. A huge potted olive tree in its courtyard welcomes you to al-fresco dining, which is more like what you would expect when eating on a Mediterranean island. The traditional dishes were excellent both times we ate there. It's a great place to have a casual meal for two or twenty people.
We started with delicious grilled halloumi, roasted feta, and grilled octopus. Then we had the chicken souvlaki, which was tender and very flavorful; the sieftalia were cooked perfectly, and the lamb shank was mouthwatering!